Monday, December 31, 2007

Cuisine du Depression: Mock-Apple Pie

Back in 1975, Russell Baker wrote a now-legendary column in which he wryly commented on a multi-course banquet consumed by Craig Claiborne, then the Times's chief food writer, by disclosing his self-prepared gourmet meal, which featured such highlights as pate de fruites de nuts of Georgia, in which "A half-inch layer of creamy style peanut butter is trowled onto a graham cracker, then half a banana is crudely diced and pressed firmly into the peanut butter and cemented in place as it were by a second graham cracker."

Among the several main courses, "I prepared beans with bacon grease, a dish I perfected in 1937 while developing my cuisine du depression."

So it is in the spirit of cuisine du depression that I made a dessert that, as an avid reader of the backs of Ritz cracker boxes, I had long been curious about: Mock-Apple Pie.

There are indeed no apples of any kind in Mock-Apple Pie: the filling is a mixture of crushed Ritz crackers and sugar syrup. The recipe is straightforward and not particularly challenging.

As will be seen from the picture, the finished product does indeed come out looking very much like applie pie, with a filling that is the same consistency and color of the original. (The flaky crust is the Pet-Ritz frozen variety.)

It has a satisfying taste, over all, although I did not think it tasted particularly like apple pie. The lemon zest and juice that is added tends to become the dominant note, and I wonder if sneaking in a little apple juice wouldn't be more to the point. Still, it was enthusiastically received chez moi.